Dizem as boas e más línguas por aí que sou uma chef polêmica. Nunca havia pensado no assunto sob esse prisma, mas não sei se concordo. O fato de dizer tudo o que eu penso sem medo de ser feliz não quer dizer que diga para criar polêmica. Digo por que adoro a verdade e a clareza. Na vida, na cozinha e no imaginário coletivo. Veja por exemplo a questão do azeite de trufas. Falei porque deu vontade, senti o cheiro, enjoei e falei. Pronto, gerou uma polêmica incrível. Pautou reportagens, entrevistas, coletivas de imprensa. Soube até que tem uma comitiva italiana de produtores de azeite de trufas vindo da Itália especialmente para me conhecer. Pena que não está na época das trufas em Alba, senão pediria para que trouxessem uma fresca para mim na mala!
A questão sobre o azeite de trufas é simples: usa quem quer! Eu não quero mais. Já usei e me arrependo. Quantos pargos fresquíssimos já assassinei na vida, não pelo fato de tê-los colocado na panela, porque nesse caso sempre tomei muito cuidado com o ponto de cada um. Mas pela infelicidade de ter jogado esse líquido insosso na cara deles! Quantos consommés levíssimos já transformei em pedras vulcânicas? Quantos raviólis de massa tenra e recheio cremoso, já não sentenciei à pena de morte, ao regar cheia de pompa e circunstância o pobre coitado com esse azeite adulterado?
Para mim não funciona. Eu procuro o sabor real das coisas, essa, como todo mundo sabe é uma das minhas maiores obsessões. É a minha busca e a minha alegria. Me sinto traindo uma causa quando abuso do meu direito de ir e vir e agrego um elemento a mais onde não deveria. E isso é muito fácil. Lembro-me muito bem que precisei de alguns anos de prática para conseguir preparar um jantar que prestasse na França. Sempre me excedia. Enlouquecia na feira, queria levar tudo, usar tudo, experimentar tudo. Resultado? Nunca acertava a medida.
Acertar a medida não é fácil, principalmente num mundo conectado vinte e quatro horas online. Ceder a tentações como as do “aroma” de trufas fica relativamente fácil digamos assim. Compreensível até, para não pegar muito pesado. Agora incompreensível mesmo é saber o que vem a ser “aroma”de trufas? Meu São Lourenzo me ajuda? Difícil mesmo, de verdade, é manter-se fiel ao que se acredita. Acho que não tem tarefa mais complicada do que essa hoje em dia, sabe por quê? Porque dói, machuca e faz dodói. Difícil é ter coragem de, como diz a Ale Forbes, escancarar o coração e a cozinha diariamente para quem quiser ouvir. Isso pode ser enquadrado na categoria polêmica? Se puder eu não terei alternativa senão topar. Mas se puder optar eu prefiro assim: em vez de chef, cozinheira, por favor. E ao invés de polêmica, verdadeira, por gentileza!
Até!
Tags: azeite de trufas, polêmica
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