Tenho pratos rondando a minha mente. Acordo sentindo sabores, revendo cores, acertando texturas. Aqui falta, aqui tem demais, ali pesa, lá pode, aqui não. Um prato é construção de uma expressão, e em minha opinião ela tem que ser precisa, clara, tranquila. Não acredito em construções que se apoiam em elementos demais. Gosto do minimalismo e da exatidão. Sabores marcantes, verdadeiros, convictos.
Convicção é uma palavra forte. Gosto dela. Convivo com ela. Luto por ela. Esses pratos que andam rondando a minha cabeça são delicados, autoconfiantes e desafiantes! Não há desafio maior no mundo de hoje que optar pelo artesanal. Palavra forte também. Simples, poética, exata. Quer dizer simplesmente: feito a mão. E o que mais interessa? Feito a mão diz tudo, projeta tudo, conclui tudo. Expressa tudo.
Outro dia assistindo a um documentário sobre a vida de Coco Chanel, caí num choro profundo no momento em que ela proíbe completamente as máquinas de costura e decide que dali em diante tudo será feito a mão. Os detalhes, os acabamentos, as texturas, tudo estará a partir de então permeado pela energia intensa e necessária das mãos. Depois disso tenho pensado demais. Repensado também. Sofrido muito mais.
Meus pratos não têm conseguido o espaço necessário para deixar a minha mente e assumir o seu lugar no mundo. Não têm encontrado a tolerância necessária para a expressão precisa. Seu preparo, sua concepção e execução não se encaixam na correria que hoje em dia atende pelo nome de: refeição. Na visão dos meus pratos uma refeição precisa de cadência. De respiração, entrega e contemplação. O tempo é efêmero. Pode parecer muito, pode parecer pouco, a contemplação não impõe regras.
Restaurantes, a história comprova, sempre foram lugares onde as pessoas procuraram restauração. Não é a toa que os primeiros que se tem notícia vendiam apenas sopas restauradoras. Restaurar, degustar, sentir, vivenciar. Nada disso combina com o ritmo que a vida hoje nos impõe. O artesanato necessita sentir o tempo. O tempo necessário à sua confecção, a sua existência e finalmente à sua expressão verdadeira. É uma proposta, uma tentativa de escapar das ciladas que o ritmo da nossa vida hoje nos impõe. Uma chance.
Danúsia Barbara, crítica gastronômica que eu muito respeito, certa vez ao me escolher como melhor chef do Rio de Janeiro, disse essa frase: “ Mas não é todo mundo que entende o seu artesanato.” Isso sempre volta à minha mente. Dia após dia, noite após noite, quando clamamos pelo ritual, pelo tempo, pela tolerância. O ritual não é um aprisionamento. É uma chance que cada um pode ou não se dar. Não somos nós que decidimos isso. É a vida que passa.
Até!
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