Uma das perguntas mais difíceis para mim, na ótima entrevista que saiu na Revista de Domingo do jornal O Globo na semana passada, foi sobre considerar ou não, o ofício de cozinheiro uma arte. Difícil. A rigor não é, por outro lado, é. Complexo, confuso, para se pensar.
Também proponho pensar na maneira como as escolas de gastronomia vendem esse “pacote de sonhos” para os seus alunos. Será que, além de todas as promessas, ainda vem de brinde a possibilidade de se tornar artista?
A verdade é que primeiro, antes de qualquer coisa, há que se tornar cozinheiro. Mas muitas vezes isso não fica bem claro. Para começar, a promessa é tornar-se “Chef”. Ora, mas Chef é um posto, nada mais do que isso. Acima de tudo numa cozinha somos todos cozinheiros. Um Chef sem uma cozinha para chefiar é um cozinheiro. Um Chef com uma cozinha para chefiar é um cozinheiro com mais responsabilidades. Simples. Essa é a primeira decepção, a descoberta de que a equação é assim tão simples. “Então investi tanto dinheiro para me tornar cozinheiro?”. Bem, para mim está valendo, estou feliz da vida.
A segunda decepção é o caminho natural: começar de baixo. Mas seria isso uma regra só na gastronomia? Certamente que não. Começar de baixo faz parte do jogo, da vida, dos sonhos. Mas será que no pacote que foi vendido a esses estudantes havia a promessa de pular essa etapa e, portanto, não vivenciar o sofrimento, tão necessário como ingrediente nessa receita, bem como nas grandes conquistas? Que banais seriam as vitórias sem ele.
Outro dia acordei e fui até a cozinha para tomar o meu café da manhã. Ao me aproximar senti um cheiro que não deixou dúvidas, me remeteu aos tempos difíceis. Era o molho de tomate da minha avó que me transportou direto para as madrugadas em Brasília, quando vendia o meu cachorro quente. O que seria de mim sem essa lembrança ora agradável, ora tão sofrida? Talvez alguém que não dá tanto valor a todas as conquistas, sejam elas as mais simples, como o brilho no olhar de um cliente, até as mais requintadas, como cozinhar para reis, rainhas, presidentes, artistas…
O que seria de mim se nenhuma porta tivesse sido arremessada na minha cara cada vez que bati nelas para pedir um simples estágio? O que seria de mim se tivesse realmente desistido no primeiro obstáculo, que foram tantos e me ensinaram tanto? O que seria da paixão pelo meu ofício se esse ofício não tivesse sido conquistado? Que triste eu seria se ele me tivesse sido oferecido em bandeja de prata. Será que não é esse o motivo pelo qual assisto diariamente diante dos meus olhos, sonhos serem esquartejados por jovens que tem tudo para chegar mais longe?
Talvez seja hora de parar. Talvez seja hora de repensar. Talvez seja hora de aceitar que, no fundo, todos nós temos uma parcela de responsabilidade nessa história.
Até!
Tags: Chef de cozinha, Cozinheiro, Profissão
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