Resolvi dividir esse post em partes porque tenho certeza de que ele vai dar o que falar. Essa é apenas a parte I, então antes que comecem a chover as ponderações, ou até as discussões, sugiro aguardar a parte das conclusões, para só então começar a bombardear essa humilde cozinheira repleta de convicções. Ficou quase poético, não?
Cozimento é cozimento desde que inventaram o fogo. Antes dele também, porque não podemos esquecer que existem os cozimentos a frio, aqueles que derivam da ação de um ácido, do sal e outras reações. Mas, no momento, vamos nos concentrar nos cozimentos que, pelo menos aparentemente, prescindem de fogo.
Pode ser mais lento, o que a gente costuma qualificar como cozimento de dentro para fora. Também pode ser mais agressivo, esse a gente chama de cozimento de fora para dentro. Esse se utiliza sempre de um calor muito intenso e constante por pouco tempo. O objetivo é selar o lado de fora e prender dentro o máximo de suculência e umidade possível num processo muito rápido. O primeiro, o lento, normalmente é feito numa temperatura muito baixa e sem grandes variações, durante um longo tempo. Aí mora a grande dificuldade de encontrar o equilíbrio entre a maciez e a perda de volume e umidade.
É difícil, eu sei. Minha avó sabe. Os cozinheiros, desde os tempos de Antonin Carême, também sabem. Não é a toa que naquele tempo existia inclusive uma figura chamada “assador”, tamanha a importância dessa técnica numa cozinha. Difícil sim, impossível não. Tenho ouvido certas declarações contundentes a favor do cozimento a vácuo ultimamente. Respeito algumas e discordo fervorosamente de outras.
Não posso, por exemplo, concordar com o discurso de que a salvação da cozinha moderna esteja nas mãos do cozimento a vácuo, e não nas mãos dos próprios cozinheiros. Concordo que a técnica de cozimento, sobretudo a dos assados requer uma precisão e uma perícia que é para poucos. Os assados… O nome já diz tudo. Em quantos restaurantes hoje em dia encontramos ofertas de assados diariamente? Não estou falando de churrascaria, claro. Talvez essa falta de oferta possa ilustrar a complexidade que envolve a técnica. E quem sabe até o porquê do seu pseudo-desaparecimento.
Pseudo-desaparecimento? Ah, isso é assunto para a parte II…
Até!
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