Chamei de “pseudo-desaparecimento” o sumiço dos assados dos menus de muitos restaurantes, porque algumas vezes, o que se apresenta como um assado, em minha opinião não é bem isso. É aí que entra a minha resistência ao hoje tão idolatrado cozimento a vácuo. Assado em minha opinião começa no forno e termina no forno. Pode começar em fogo mais brando e terminar em fogo mais alto. Pode ser o contrário também. Pode estar totalmente selado com papel alumínio, ou outra coisa, justamente para criar um vapor concentrado e constante, que sabemos, auxilia a busca pela maciez. Pode. Mas não pode começar dentro de um saco plástico, mergulhado em água quente e terminar na salamandra. Para ser tratado como assado, não pode. Para ser tratado como algo macio, até pode. Mas veja lá a diferença entre “algo macio” e um bom assado…
Veja bem, não é que eu seja ranzinza ou não esteja aberta a mudanças. Não é que eu não enxergue também a grande contribuição dessa técnica para as grandes cozinhas, refeitórios, caterings e etc. No armazenamento e até em alguns tipos de cozimento. Mas nos assados… Eu simplesmente só consigo enxergar um assado com os olhos dos “assadores”, aqueles indivíduos tão fundamentais nas cozinhas de Antonin Carême e Cia.
Não sou contra o pensamento, o questionamento e até as rupturas quando se mostram necessárias. Muito pelo contrário. Acho que refletir é adicionar modernidade na medida certa a uma gastronomia que está em plena evolução. Mas não posso concordar com a ideia de que a solução esteja tão somente ligada ao uso de mais tecnologia nas cozinhas. Ou que a evolução de uma cozinha sem ela não seja razoável e absolutamente possível.
Primeiro porque acredito que a cozinha, sobretudo a brasileira, tem uma conexão extremamente forte com a tradição. Com o cheirinho de defumado que o fogão a lenha insinua, com o gosto marcante que se concentra no fundo de uma panela de barro ou de ferro. E com a caramelização tão necessária aos assados e a vida.
Além disso, não me agrada nem um pouco a idéia de padronização. Cada cozinha tem o seu cheiro, seu jeito, seus métodos e seu tão poético “modus operandi”. Imaginar que execuções que variam justamente porque estamos falando de ingredientes, maneiras e possibilidades tão diferentes, possam, de uma hora para outra, se tornar absolutamente previsíveis, a ponto de termos certeza que ponto de cocção estará sempre correto, me assusta profundamente. Mais do que isso, me atormenta!
A continuar…
Até!
nossa mas vc podia dizer oq são os cozimentos??????????????????????????
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