Partindo da tormenta anterior, o que mais me assusta é o fato de alguns estudantes hoje em dia já saírem da universidade com uma única ideia, uma única possibilidade ou solução para algumas coisas. No quesito cozimento, o vácuo parece ser uma unanimidade. Nada me apavorou tanto quanto o dia em que recebi um estudante de gastronomia no meu restaurante para jantar e no final, aparentemente maravilhado com a textura do ossobuco de vitelo, ele sentenciou: “só pode ter sido preparado no vácuo.”
Eu deveria ter respondido: “Como assim? Desde quando a maciez está sentenciada a uma só forma de preparo? Quem foi que te ensinou isso?”. Mas, como meu avô sempre me ensinou, existem situações e situações. Preferi então sorrir e dizer: “Nesse aspecto eu sou mais antiga”. E me retirar parecendo uma velhinha ultrapassada. Ainda hoje posso rever o semblante dele me olhando perplexo, confuso, praticamente a vácuo.
Volto a dizer, não sou contra a evolução. Desde que ela seja coerente e não venha impregnada com a síndrome da verdade absoluta. Pensar é fundamental. Experimentar também, todas as formas, todas as possibilidades, se apropriar do conhecimento, para só então decidir o melhor caminho. A melhor maneira de expressar esse sentimento que está diretamente ligado ao ato de cozinhar.
Foi assim que outro dia vivenciei uma das cenas mais emocionantes da minha vida. Tão moderna, mas nem tanto. Entrei na cozinha para tomar um cafezinho fora de hora e encontrei a minha avó trocando ideias com a Renata. As duas estavam assando sobrecoxas de frango, ou como nós costumamos chamar mais poeticamente no Rio Grande do Sul, o “Santo Antônio”. Haviam assado primeiro no forno grande numa travessa, tampadas com papel alumínio por um bom tempo em temperatura bem baixa. Naquele momento a minha avó dava instruções – a Chef! – para que a Renata aquecesse o forninho – aquele que a gente usa para fazer torradas e misto quente expresso na madrugada – e passasse então as sobrecoxas para lá. Perguntei o porquê daquele ritual e minha avó me respondeu: “Ora, porque no forno baixo ela vai assar devagarzinho até ficar bem tenra e depois no forninho a pele vai ficar bem dourada e crocante.”
Sorri por dentro e por fora. Estava diante de mim a prova de que o pensamento é fundamental e tem o seu lugar garantido na história. Na minha, na sua e na da gastronomia. Agora, como cada um vai decidir como será o seu assado, é outra história.
Até!
Tags: cozimento a vácuo, cozimentos, técnicas
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